What is the difference between reproduction and propagation

A seed must have a mature embryo, contain a large enough endosperm to sustain the embryo during germination, and contain sufficient hormones to initiate the process. There are four environmental factors which affect germination: water, oxygen, light, and heat. The first step in the germination process is the imbibition or absorption of water.

Even though seeds have great absorbing power due to the nature of the seed coat, the amount of available water in the substrate affects the uptake of water.

An adequate, continuous supply of water is important to ensure germination. Once the germination process has begun, a dry period can cause the death of the embryo. Light is known to stimulate or to inhibit germination of some types of seed.

The light reaction involved here is a complex process. Some crops which have a requirement for light to assist seed germination are ageratum, begonia, browallia, impatiens, lettuce, and petunia. Conversely, peas, beans, calendula, centaurea, annual phlox, verbena, and vinca will germinate best in the dark. Other plants are not specific at all.

Seed catalogs and seed packets often list germination or cultural tips for individual varieties. When sowing light-requiring seed, do as nature does, and leave them on the soil surface. If they are covered at all, cover them lightly with fine peat moss or fine vermiculite.

These two materials, if not applied too heavily, will permit some light to reach the seed and will not limit germination. When starting seed in the home, supplemental light can be provided by fluorescent fixtures suspended 6 to 12 inches above the seeds for 16 hours a day. High intensity lights will provide more light over the course of the day and will enhance the quality of seedlings. These lights cost more than the common shop lights, but are often worth the investment if you plan on growing plants indoors.

In all viable seed, respiration takes place. The respiration in dormant seed is low, but some oxygen is required. The respiration rate increases during germination, therefore, the substrate in which the seeds are placed should be loose and well-aerated. If the oxygen supply during germination is limited or reduced, germination can be severely retarded or inhibited.

A favorable temperature is another important requirement of germination. It not only affects the germination percentage but also the rate of germination. Some seeds will germinate over a wide range of temperatures, whereas others require a narrow range. Many seeds have minimum, maximum, and optimum temperatures at which they germinate.

For example, tomato seed has a minimum germination temperature of 50 degrees F. Where germination temperatures are listed, they are usually the optimum temperatures unless otherwise specified. Generally, 65 to 75 degrees F. This often means the germination flats may have to be placed in special chambers or on radiators, heating cables, or heating mats to maintain optimum temperature.

The importance of maintaining proper substrate temperature to achieve maximum germination percentages cannot be over-emphasized.

One of the functions of dormancy is to prevent a seed from germinating before it is surrounded by a favorable environment. In some trees and shrubs, seed dormancy is difficult to break, even when the environment is ideal. Various treatments are performed on the seed to break dormancy and begin germination. Seed scarification involves breaking, scratching, or softening the seed coat so that water can enter and begin the germination process. There are several methods of scarifying seeds. In acid scarification, seeds are put in a glass container and covered with concentrated sulfuric acid.

The seeds are gently stirred and allowed to soak from 10 minutes to several hours, depending on the hardness of the seed coat. When the seed coat has become thin, the seeds can be removed, washed, and planted. Another scarification method is mechanical.

Seeds are filed with a metal file, rubbed with sandpaper, or cracked with a hammer to weaken the seed coat. Hot water scarification involves putting the seed into hot water to degrees F. The seeds are allowed to soak in the water, as it cools, for 12 to 24 hours and then planted. A fourth method is one of warm, moist scarification.

In this case, seeds are stored in nonsterile, warm, damp containers where the seed coat will be broken down by decay over several months. Seeds of some fall-ripening trees and shrubs of the temperate zone will not germinate unless chilled underground as they over winter. The following procedure is usually successful. Put sand or vermiculite in a clay pot to about 1 inch from the top.

Wet the medium thoroughly and allow excess water to drain through the hole in the pot. Place the pot containing the moist medium and seeds in a plastic bag and seal.

Place the bag in a refrigerator. Periodically check to see that the medium is moist, but not wet. Additional water will probably not be necessary. After 10 to 12 weeks, remove the bag from the refrigerator. Take the pot out and set it in a warm place in the house. Water often enough to keep the medium moist. Soon the seedlings should emerge.

When the young plants are about 3 inches tall, transplant them into pots to grow until time for setting outside. Another procedure that is usually successful uses sphagnum moss or peat moss. Wet the moss thoroughly, then squeeze out the excess water with your hands.

Mix seed with the sphagnum or peat and place in a plastic bag. Seal the bag and put it in a refrigerator. Check periodically. If there is condensation on the inside of the bag, the process will probably be successful. Plant the seeds in pots to germinate and grow. Handle seeds carefully. Often the small roots and shoots are emerging at the end of the stratification period.

Care must be taken not to break these off. Temperatures in the range of 35 to 45 degrees F 2 to 70C are effective. Most refrigerators operate in this range. Seeds of most fruit and nut trees can be successfully germinated by these procedures.

Seeds of peaches should be removed from the hard pit. Care must be taken when cracking the pits. Any injury to the seed itself can be an entry path for disease organisms.

A wide range of materials can be used to start seeds, from plain vermiculite or mixtures of soilless substrates to the various amended soil mixes. With experience, you will learn to determine what works best for the seeds that you are starting. When choosing a substrate its important to keep in mind what the good qualities of a germinating substrate are.

It should be rather fine and uniform, yet well-aerated and loose. It should be free of insects, disease organisms, and weed seeds. It should also be of low fertility or total soluble salts and capable of holding and moving moisture by capillary action. The importance of using a sterile medium and container cannot be over-emphasized.

The home gardener can treat a small quantity of soil mixture in an oven. Place the slightly moist soil in a heat-resistant container in an oven set at about degrees F. Use a candy or meat thermometer to ensure that the mix reaches a temperature of degrees F. Avoid over-heating as this can be extremely damaging to the soil.

Be aware that the heat will release very unpleasant odors in the process of sterilization. This treatment should prevent damping-off and other plant diseases, as well as eliminate potential plant pests. Growing containers and implements should be washed to remove any debris and rinsed in a solution of 1 part chlorine bleach to 9 parts water. An artificial, soilless mix also provides the desired qualities of a good germination substrate. The basic ingredients of such a mix are sphagnum peat moss and vermiculite, both of which are generally free of diseases, weed seeds, and insects.

The ingredients are also readily available, easy to handle, lightweight, and produce uniform plant growth. Mix thoroughly. These mixes have little fertility, so seedlings must be watered with a diluted fertilizer solution soon after they emerge. Do not use garden soil by itself to start seedlings; it is not sterile, is too heavy, and will not drain well. Flats and trays can be purchased or you can make your own containers for starting seeds by recycling such things as cottage cheese containers, the bottoms of milk cartons or bleach containers, and pie pans, as long as good drainage is provided.

At least one company has developed a form for recycling newspaper into pots, and another has developed a method for the consumer to make and use compressed blocks of soil mix instead of pots. You can make your own flats from scrap lumber. A convenient size to handle would be about 12 to 18 inches long and 12 inches wide with a depth of about 2 inches.

Clay or plastic pots can be used and numerous types of pots made of compressed peat and other biodegradable materials are also on the market. Multi-cell containers packs where each cell holds a single plant reduce the risk of root injury when transplanting young plants. Peat pellets, peat or fiber-based blocks, and expanded foam cubes can also be used for seeding. The downside to sowing seeds in individual cells or pellets is that they dry out faster than multiple seedlings sown in a flat or larger container.

The proper time for sowing seeds for transplants depends upon when plants may safely be moved out-of-doors in your area. This period may range from 4 to 12 weeks prior to transplanting, depending upon the speed of germination, the rate of growth, and the cultural conditions provided. A common mistake is to sow the seeds too early and then attempt to hold the seedlings back under poor light or improper temperature ranges. This usually results in tall, weak, spindly plants which do not perform well in the garden.

Gently firm the substrate at the corners and edges with your fingers or a block of wood to provide a uniform, flat surface. By sowing in rows, good light and air movement results, and if damping-off fungus does appear, there is less chance of it spreading. Seedlings in rows are easier to label and handle at transplanting time than those which have been sown in a broadcast manner. Sow the seeds thinly and uniformly in the rows by gently tapping the packet of seed as it is moved along the row.

Lightly cover the seed with dry vermiculite or sifted substrate if they require darkness for germination. A suitable planting depth is usually about twice the diameter of the seed.

Do not plant seeds too deeply. Extremely fine seed such as petunia, begonia, and snapdragon are not covered, but lightly pressed into the medium or watered in with a fine mist.

If these seeds are broadcast, strive for a uniform stand by sowing half the seeds in one direction, then sowing the other way with the remaining seed in a crossing pattern. Large seeds are frequently sown into some sort of a small container or cell pack which eliminates the need for early transplanting. Usually 2 or 3 seeds are sown per unit and later thinned to allow the strongest seedling to grow.

A germination test will allow you to determine how many seeds need to be sown per cell. Most garden stores and seed catalogs offer indoor and outdoor seed tapes.

Seed tape has precisely spaced seeds enclosed in an organic, water-soluble material. When planted, the tape dissolves and the seeds germinate normally. Seed tapes are especially convenient for tiny, hard-to-handle seeds. However, tapes are much more expensive per seed. Seed tapes allow uniform emergence, eliminate overcrowding, and permit sowing in perfectly straight rows. The tapes can be cut at any point for multiple-row plantings, and thinning is rarely necessary.

Learn how to make your own seed tape. Another method of starting seeds is pregermination. This method involves sprouting the seeds before they are planted. This reduces the time to germination, as the temperature and moisture are easy to control.

A high percentage of germination is achieved since environmental factors are optimum. Lay seeds between the folds of a cotton cloth or on a layer of vermiculite in a shallow pan. Keep moist, in a warm place.

When roots begin to show, place the seeds in containers or plant them directly in the garden. While transplanting seedlings, be careful not to break off tender roots. Continued attention to watering is critical. Some seed companies sell carefully dried pregerminated seeds. When planting fresh, pregerminated seeds in a container to transplant in the garden later, place 1 seed in a 2- to 3-inch container. These materials will keep the surface uniformly moist and are easy for the shoot to push through.

Keep in a warm place and care for them as for any other newly transplanted seedlings. A convenient way to plant small, delicate, pre-germinated seeds is to suspend them in a gel. You can make a gel by blending cornstarch with boiling water to a consistency that is thick enough so the seeds will stay suspended.

Be sure to cool thoroughly before use. Place the gel with seedlings in a plastic bag with a hole in it. Squeeze the gel through the hole along a pre-marked garden row. Spacing of seeds is determined by the number of seeds in the gel.

If the spacing is too dense, add more gel; if too wide, add more seeds. The gel will keep the germinating seeds moist until they establish themselves in the garden soil.

After the seed has been sown, moisten the planting mix thoroughly. Use a fine mist or place the containers in a pan or tray which contains about 1 inch of warm water. Avoid splashing or excessive flooding which might displace small seeds.

When the planting mix is saturated, set the container aside to drain. The soil should be moist but not wet. Ideally, seed flats should remain sufficiently moist during the germination period without having to add water. One way to maintain moisture is to slip the whole flat or pot into a clear plastic bag after the initial watering. The plastic should be at least 1 inch from the soil.

Keep the container out of direct sunlight; otherwise the temperature may rise to the point where the seeds will be harmed. Many home gardeners cover their flats with panes of glass instead of using a plastic sleeve. Be sure to remove the plastic bag or glass cover as soon as the first seedlings appear.

Surface watering can then be practiced if care and good judgment are used. Lack of uniformity, overwatering, or drying out are problems related to manual watering. Excellent germination and moisture uniformity can be obtained with a low-pressure misting system. Four seconds of mist every 6 minutes or 10 seconds every 15 minutes during the daytime in spring seems to be satisfactory.

Bottom heat is an asset with a mist system. Subirrigation or watering from below may work well, keeping the flats moist. However, as the flats or pots must sit in water constantly, the soil may absorb too much water, and the seeds may rot due to lack of oxygen. Several factors for good germination have already been mentioned.

The last item, and by no means the least important, is temperature. Since most seeds will germinate best at an optimum temperature that is usually higher than most home night temperatures, special warm areas must often be provided. The use of thermostatically controlled heating cables is an excellent method of providing constant heat. After germination and seedling establishment, move the flats to a light, airy, cooler location, at a 55 to 60 degree F. Besides, artificial vegetative propagation from a parent plant produces fewer new individual plants.

What are some examples of budding? Examples of Budding Bacteria, yeast, corals, flatworms, Jellyfish and sea anemones are some animal species which reproduce through budding. Is a potato a rhizome? A rhizome is the main stem of the plant. A stem tuber is a thickened part of a rhizome or stolon that has been enlarged for use as a storage organ.

In general, a tuber is high in starch, e. Is vegetative reproduction a form of cloning? Yes, vegetative reproduction is asexual reproduction and clone is also a offspring of asexual reproduction. The clones are formed from the same group cells. They are genetically similar to their source and each other.

A potato tuber may yields more than one plants and all the descendants are clones. What are the advantages of artificial vegetative propagation? Some of the important advantages of the artificial vegetative propagation of plants are given below: The new plants produced by artificial vegetative propagation will be exactly like the parent plants. Any desirable features of the parent plant will be replicated in the new plants. How do rhizomes reproduce?

First, Rhizomes are horizontal underground stems. The rhizomes grow out from the original plant and invade the nearby soil. They then make new flowering stalks. Even though we think of grasses and weeds most often with this type of vegetative propagation, this method of asexual reproduction can even be seen in irises.

What are the 7 Types of asexual reproduction? Terms in this set 7 Budding. A form of asexual reproduction of yeast in which a new cell grows out of the body of a parent. Applying hormones may aid in more rapid development of roots on the cuttings. Some plants refuse to root from stem cuttings regardless of the care that is taken in collecting and handling the material. In cases such as this, it may be easier to create new plants from root cuttings.

Root cuttings should not be taken from plants that are immature or have been recently moved, because the very process of taking the cuttings involves severe disturbance of the plant. Look at the physical characteristics of the root structure to help decide whether root cuttings will be successful. For example, many penstemon species grow from a woody caudex , which may form a taproot-type of structure underground. This type of root structure is often not very conducive to producing root cuttings.

On the other hand, fibrous root systems, particularly those in which the individual roots are large or fleshy, provide more material for cuttings, usually with less damage to the original plant. Many commonly grown herbaceous plants should have a 'Do Not Disturb' sign hanging from their stems. These plants often have root systems that are brittle, composed of very few roots, or have difficulty regenerating roots once they are disturbed. Balloon flower Platycodon grandiflorus and gas plant Dictamnus albus are examples of plants that respond poorly to disturbance.

Root cuttings are made by carefully digging whole plants or sections of plants and cutting sections of actively growing root tips. Fine roots one-fourth of an inch in diameter or less, like those of butterfly milkweed Asclepias tuberosa are sectioned into pieces one to two inches long. The root pieces are laid on their sides in a light soil or coarse sand and covered with half an inch of sand, which is then moistened and placed in a cold frame or other container to overwinter in cold conditions.

Thicker roots, like those of common bleeding heart Dicentra spectabilis are cut into pieces three to four inches long. To keep track of which end is up, make a flat cut on the root closest to the crown of the plant and an angled cut toward the root end.

Insert the cuttings vertically with the flat top end up into clean potting soil, cover, water, and over winter in a cold frame. Division might be considered a rather abrupt cutting or propagation method. However, home gardeners often use division more as a management technique to maintain the health and vigor of a herbaceous plant than to produce more plants. Again, an elementary understanding of the root structure of the plant will give you a clue about its ability to be successfully divided.

Plants that produce small plantlets from a central crown, like Penstemon digitalis or Penstemon grandiflorus , can be divided by simply removing the smaller plants each with a generous portion of root and replanting them.